Melody
Nov 6th 2006, 11:29 PM
Hatching Applesnail Clutches
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-2009-CanaClutch-Gold-2.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-P-Bridgesii-Clutch-03-13.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-Salton_Clutch-02_11-1.jpg
I have been asked numerous times how to hatch out an Applesnail clutch, now that the snail craze is in full swing. I thought a sticky might be helpful :FishQuestion: . This information applies to Applesnails which lay above the waterline, such as P. bridgesii, P. haustrum and P. canaliculata (Cana).
Clutches can be left where they're laid to hatch into the tank. However, there's more room for error with this method. First, the clutch can't be too close to the light as it will dry out. The tank must be humid and warm, yet the clutch cannot be too wet. To improve your chances, you may wish to use one of the following methods of hatching the clutch.
First, the removal. Wait at least 24 hours before attempting to move the clutch. You can gently wiggle the clutch from side to side, not really attempting to move it at first, just applying light pressure. It should loosen and pop right off. Don't worry about if you pop an egg or two - there can be upwards of 300+ eggs in each clutch so you can spare a couple ;) . If you prefer, you can also use a thin, flexible card - pet store membership cards are often perfect.
Hatching Method 1: One of the easiest methods is to use one of those horrid fry saver contraptions. I'd never recommend one for the purpose for which they are intended, but for hatching clutches inside an existing tank, they are perfect. Position the breeder trap so that there is ample space above the water line, very little has to be below it. Float a piece of styro on top of the water. You may wish to put elastics around the styro or use toothpicks to keep the clutch slightly raised - I use elastics along with a bumpy meat tray on top of the styro. This allows for air circulation and prevents rot from laying in too much moisture (photo below). Place the cover on the fry saver / breeding trap, and keep an eye on the clutch. If it appears to be too dry, you can use your finger to lightly moisten it once per day, or mist it lightly. Warmth is also crucial, so a heated tank or one which has the light on for extended periods is advised.
Hatching Method 2: You can use any ol' container as a snail hatchery, or opt for a small fish tank set up to maintain high humidity levels. Use the same method of floating the clutches on styro as described above, filling the container about half way. Some put small air holes in the lid, but I personally have had better results without the holes. I check the clutch once/day or so. Place the container in a warm spot, such as on top of an aquarium light, on a warm appliance such as a refridgerator, or even on top of a computer tower.
Hatching Method 3: Wrap the clutch loosely in a thin layer of damp paper towel and float it using your preferred method. Alternately, you can wrap it, place it in a container (or other environment which allows high humidity) and continually check it for signs of hatching. This method is more for P. Bridgesii as the other Applesnails tend to like less humidity than this method provides.
Many breeders use varying methods, but those are the basics. Warmth and humidity are your number one concern, closely followed by ensuring that the clutch does not stay too wet.
Hatching takes an average of 2-4 weeks. You will notice the clutch growing and the shade will change. Typically they will appear white or very light on the surface as they approach hatching, and you will see dark spots beneath the surface - those dark spots are your snailbies!
Following is an example of the various development stages of P. Bridgesii clutches:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-Clutches-MixedPBridgesii.jpg
The clutch on the top left is closest to hatching, closely followed by the clutch on the top right. The Clutch on the top middle is the most recently laid.
Hatching P. Bridgesii clutch:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-Debora-Hatchlings2.jpg
When the snails begin to hatch, you can gently swish the clutch through the water to help the newborns along.
These hatchlings are from two clutches, somewhere between a week and two weeks old (that's my pinky finger):
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-Pinkynail-Hatchlings2.jpg
I find that hatchlings do much better in a small tank/container for the first week or three of life. It makes it easier for them to find food and move about in general. Then I move them to a grow-out tank with a low current until they are large enough to join the community.
I don't find them to be very interested in commercial foods at first, preferring to feed on algae/seaweed, softened, peeled & quartered peas or decaying plants. Next (and sometimes at first) they'll usually take Shrimp pellets and Dainichi food. I still panic if I don't think they're eating :Embarassing: , so I make baby food for them. I posted the recipe in the Nutrition section here (http://www.canadianaquariumconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12).
Its really not all that complicated and methods vary. Please feel free to add your methods and tips. I hope these guidelines answer the questions of new snail breeders. If not, just ask! :)
Please note: There are many, many snails in one clutch as a rule. Please be sure that you are able to provide optimum growing conditions for so many snails before hatching a clutch. The snails will usually lay in spurts, leaving you clutches every few days for a number of weeks - that's a lot of snails! If you are unable to care for them all, you may wish to dispose of the clutches by freezing them as early in the clutch development as possible, then throw them out. To find homes for your snails, utilize our Auction/Classifieds and Swap sections, approach a reputable store or offer them at your local fish club auctions.
If you have snails that you are unable to find homes for or if you do not want to dispose of clutches, please contact me and I will put you in touch with breeders who have the facilities to house them. You can usually find homes for them for the cost of shipping if all else fails.
IMPORTANT: The Canadian climate does not support the wild existence of Applesnails, but they should never be released into the wild. There is a possibility of disease introduction and they will compete with native creatures for food for the season.
Although all hobby aquatic snails are currently legal in Canada to my knowledge, most countries have banned some or all of them due to crop devastation, etc, especially the plant-eaters. The US, for example, will only issue permits for non-plant-eating snails. Never ship to another country without knowing their laws and import regulations - the courts will not accept ignorance as a defence.
Otherwise, have fun!
---------------------------------------------------------
©Please note: While you are welcome to link directly to this thread,
the contents are copyright Melody McKinnon and cannot be copied.
Thank you for respecting the effort that I have put into our content.
---------------------------------------------------------
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-2009-CanaClutch-Gold-2.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-P-Bridgesii-Clutch-03-13.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-Salton_Clutch-02_11-1.jpg
I have been asked numerous times how to hatch out an Applesnail clutch, now that the snail craze is in full swing. I thought a sticky might be helpful :FishQuestion: . This information applies to Applesnails which lay above the waterline, such as P. bridgesii, P. haustrum and P. canaliculata (Cana).
Clutches can be left where they're laid to hatch into the tank. However, there's more room for error with this method. First, the clutch can't be too close to the light as it will dry out. The tank must be humid and warm, yet the clutch cannot be too wet. To improve your chances, you may wish to use one of the following methods of hatching the clutch.
First, the removal. Wait at least 24 hours before attempting to move the clutch. You can gently wiggle the clutch from side to side, not really attempting to move it at first, just applying light pressure. It should loosen and pop right off. Don't worry about if you pop an egg or two - there can be upwards of 300+ eggs in each clutch so you can spare a couple ;) . If you prefer, you can also use a thin, flexible card - pet store membership cards are often perfect.
Hatching Method 1: One of the easiest methods is to use one of those horrid fry saver contraptions. I'd never recommend one for the purpose for which they are intended, but for hatching clutches inside an existing tank, they are perfect. Position the breeder trap so that there is ample space above the water line, very little has to be below it. Float a piece of styro on top of the water. You may wish to put elastics around the styro or use toothpicks to keep the clutch slightly raised - I use elastics along with a bumpy meat tray on top of the styro. This allows for air circulation and prevents rot from laying in too much moisture (photo below). Place the cover on the fry saver / breeding trap, and keep an eye on the clutch. If it appears to be too dry, you can use your finger to lightly moisten it once per day, or mist it lightly. Warmth is also crucial, so a heated tank or one which has the light on for extended periods is advised.
Hatching Method 2: You can use any ol' container as a snail hatchery, or opt for a small fish tank set up to maintain high humidity levels. Use the same method of floating the clutches on styro as described above, filling the container about half way. Some put small air holes in the lid, but I personally have had better results without the holes. I check the clutch once/day or so. Place the container in a warm spot, such as on top of an aquarium light, on a warm appliance such as a refridgerator, or even on top of a computer tower.
Hatching Method 3: Wrap the clutch loosely in a thin layer of damp paper towel and float it using your preferred method. Alternately, you can wrap it, place it in a container (or other environment which allows high humidity) and continually check it for signs of hatching. This method is more for P. Bridgesii as the other Applesnails tend to like less humidity than this method provides.
Many breeders use varying methods, but those are the basics. Warmth and humidity are your number one concern, closely followed by ensuring that the clutch does not stay too wet.
Hatching takes an average of 2-4 weeks. You will notice the clutch growing and the shade will change. Typically they will appear white or very light on the surface as they approach hatching, and you will see dark spots beneath the surface - those dark spots are your snailbies!
Following is an example of the various development stages of P. Bridgesii clutches:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-Clutches-MixedPBridgesii.jpg
The clutch on the top left is closest to hatching, closely followed by the clutch on the top right. The Clutch on the top middle is the most recently laid.
Hatching P. Bridgesii clutch:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-Debora-Hatchlings2.jpg
When the snails begin to hatch, you can gently swish the clutch through the water to help the newborns along.
These hatchlings are from two clutches, somewhere between a week and two weeks old (that's my pinky finger):
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/canadiansinternetdotcom/MM-Pinkynail-Hatchlings2.jpg
I find that hatchlings do much better in a small tank/container for the first week or three of life. It makes it easier for them to find food and move about in general. Then I move them to a grow-out tank with a low current until they are large enough to join the community.
I don't find them to be very interested in commercial foods at first, preferring to feed on algae/seaweed, softened, peeled & quartered peas or decaying plants. Next (and sometimes at first) they'll usually take Shrimp pellets and Dainichi food. I still panic if I don't think they're eating :Embarassing: , so I make baby food for them. I posted the recipe in the Nutrition section here (http://www.canadianaquariumconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12).
Its really not all that complicated and methods vary. Please feel free to add your methods and tips. I hope these guidelines answer the questions of new snail breeders. If not, just ask! :)
Please note: There are many, many snails in one clutch as a rule. Please be sure that you are able to provide optimum growing conditions for so many snails before hatching a clutch. The snails will usually lay in spurts, leaving you clutches every few days for a number of weeks - that's a lot of snails! If you are unable to care for them all, you may wish to dispose of the clutches by freezing them as early in the clutch development as possible, then throw them out. To find homes for your snails, utilize our Auction/Classifieds and Swap sections, approach a reputable store or offer them at your local fish club auctions.
If you have snails that you are unable to find homes for or if you do not want to dispose of clutches, please contact me and I will put you in touch with breeders who have the facilities to house them. You can usually find homes for them for the cost of shipping if all else fails.
IMPORTANT: The Canadian climate does not support the wild existence of Applesnails, but they should never be released into the wild. There is a possibility of disease introduction and they will compete with native creatures for food for the season.
Although all hobby aquatic snails are currently legal in Canada to my knowledge, most countries have banned some or all of them due to crop devastation, etc, especially the plant-eaters. The US, for example, will only issue permits for non-plant-eating snails. Never ship to another country without knowing their laws and import regulations - the courts will not accept ignorance as a defence.
Otherwise, have fun!
---------------------------------------------------------
©Please note: While you are welcome to link directly to this thread,
the contents are copyright Melody McKinnon and cannot be copied.
Thank you for respecting the effort that I have put into our content.
---------------------------------------------------------