fertilizers?

[BC_Kron]

I have recently set up Co2 to one of my tanks and am curious about fertilizers...Do I need to target each specific plants requirements? Or, is there a common ratio I could use to simplify? Currently found in the 72g bow front are anubias, amazon swords, crypts, fountain grass, pennywort, bolbitus, java fern and some loose floaties (duck weed, riccia). I would like to start adding some of the more delicate colourful ones but don't want to waste too much $$ on what I may kill. There just seems to be so many options, and conflicting suggestions. I figured someone here could give me some first hand knowledge.

Thanks, Jackie

[mykiss]

Hi Jackie,

I have found that most large rooted plants such as swords and crypts like root tabs since they take in a lot of nutrients from their roots. Those that have their roots hanging out in the open such as anubias, ferns (java and African such as bolbitis), floating plants and stemmed plants take a lot of nutrients in the water column.

An inexpensive way of doing it is try making your own ferts such as Poor Man's Dupla drops (PMDD). It's relatively cheap to buy and it should last you a long time. There are a few components to it such as KNO3, chelated micro nutrient mix, epsom salt, and a few others. You can find all the info on line. I have also got the recipe but I can't remember it off the top of my head. Once you start using the ferts, you will realize that the original recipe may need a bit of tweaking e.g. adding more KNO3 or less iron etc....

Also, the amount you use will also depend on the lighting and CO2. The higher the metabolism there is, the more nutrients the plants will suck up. Generally, good lighting and adding CO2 will speed up metabolism.

I'd say to get off on a good start:

1) get root tabs (fertilizer tabs) for the swords and crypts
2) make some PMDD
3) often not followed but should be..... do frequent water changes.

The water changes are imortant because it removes all the extra chemicals the plants don't take up and makes the environment better for the plants and fish, but it also adds in more CO2 in the water (I think). Every time I do a 25% water change directly from the tap, my plants always pearl (production of O2 as a by-product of photosynthesis).

I hope that helps and all the above info is my opinion/knowledge...which is not much...lol. I do it that way and it's worked in the past.

As for fertilizer tabs/balls and chemicals for PMDD, I do have them. However, you can also go to the local hydroponics store to get them if they have it all (except the fertilizer balls...lol)

[grumpystiltskin]

Hi ,
mykiss.... can you tell me what kind of root tabs you use? i have seen many in canadian tire, home depot etc, but they all have varying amounts of nitrogen ,phosphate, potash, im not sure which ones to buy, i dont want one thats going to cause an algae outbreak, my first batch of root tabs came from aquariumplants.com, with my plant order, but shipping costs for tabs alone is ridiculous. hope you can help.. ta

mick

[hp10BII]

For awhile, my echindoris bleheri's grew new lush leaves all the time only problem was the older leaves start getting transparent and a little "holey". I was snipping about 3-4 holey leaves every week and I suspected a potassium deficiency even though I was using aquarium root tabs from 2 different sources.

I tried some Jobe Fern plant spikes, a pack of those is about $2 and should last me several years. It's a balanced fertilizer, 10-10-10. I've used it for 6 weeks now, and my sword plants are looking mighty fine these days, just need it to pack on some more size. It's a low tech set-up, with no CO2 but the plants are growing well...for me it's more about the fish.

If you try that, try breaking a stick into 4 pieces and put it around the plant, I'm experimenting with the frequency...people have suggested a stick every 2 months. Make sure that you insert the pieces deep into the substrate, otherwise if it gets dug/pulled out it may release too much nutrients and cause algae problems.

[hp10BII]

Oh, I bought these at a local garden nursery. Most stores that carry root tabs have too much of one nutrient over the other ie. for flowering plants, container gardens...

[grumpystiltskin]

Thanks hp10BII
i saw the jobe sticks at canadian tire yesterday, wasnt sure which ones to use, like you said ,they have them for flowering plants, vegetables, shrubs, i,ll give the 10.10.10, a try.
I use the dry ferts from greg watson, but i need the tabs for the many swords i have .
thanks again
mick