Setting up a 40g Saltwater Aquarium

[karoch]

Hello everybody, my name is Rod and I am trying to start with saltwater. I have been having freshwater aquariums for 5 years and now I think I am ready for Saltwater.

It is the equipment I have:
·40g tank (36"L x 12W x 21H)
·01 wood stand
·01 Odyssea fixture, dual 96w bulbs and four blue moonlights built in.
·01 Fixture (aquarium equipment model:36PSDX) for a Actinic light
·02 Powerheads (Power Sweep 226)
·01 Heater Theo 300w
Now, I have some questions:

At this moment I have not buy any skimmer. In additional I don't have any sump system. Should I built a sump system or use a HOB skimmer?

For my aquarium (40g): Do you consider that take the decision about one system (sump) or just go with the skimmer will be represent a big difference?

If we decided to go with the sump system, how big will be the sump tank? Can I build it? Are there some ideas of how to do it?

I don’t want to drill my tank because I consider that it is a really small tank. In this sense, I will need an overflow box. How big it has to be? I have seen two different models: which do you consider the best one.

For my aquarium (40g): which skimmer do you consider more appropriate. I know I have to go big for the future, but which one you consider the best option.

It is incredible the differences between freshwater and saltwater. I have been reading for awhile and there is a lot of stuff to learn.

Once again thanks for your time and advices. Please forgive me for my English but it is my second language and some times trying to explain our ideas in another language is very difficult.

Rod
http://www,petbaubles.com

[Melody]

:Welcome: Thanks for joining Rod - your English is very good. I can't help you with Saltwater tanks but I'm sure someone will come along to give you some pointers soon. :smile:

[Shelley]

Hi Rod and Welcome! Your English is just fine:yes: I have a couple of saltwater tanks going and I know how confusing starting one up can be. Give me a few days and I will help you out as much as I can.

[thegrandpoohbah]

The best advice I can give you is to not cheap out on the initial investment. Get the best of everything up front otherwise you will spend way more money down the road as you become more addicted and realize you need to upgrade. This is especially true of the lighting. Your light fixture might seem OK now but when you start wanting to keep more advanced corals you'll be kicking yourself for not getting metal halide lighting. Good luck and make sure to keep us posted.

[karoch]

The best advice I can give you is to not cheap out on the initial investment. Get the best of everything up front otherwise you will spend way more money down the road as you become more addicted and realize you need to upgrade. This is especially true of the lighting. Your light fixture might seem OK now but when you start wanting to keep more advanced corals you'll be kicking yourself for not getting metal halide lighting. Good luck and make sure to keep us posted.

Hello and thanks for your comments. I have been using these light fixtures for one year and the idea is to upgrade in the future. However and as I understood, these light will be fine to start with some corals. So, I am more focus in getting a good skimmer.

Now, I would like to know in your opinion which are the metal halide lighting (I mean model or special manufacturer), you recommend to me by the time I will get on of this.

Thanks,
Rod

[thegrandpoohbah]

Hi Rod,

I am certainly no expert in the SW area so I'll let Shelley guide you in the right direction for MH lighting. I used a Coralife fixture and know many people that use them as well. They are nice fixtures although I think most people end up switchng the bulbs out for something better.

For the skimmer, were you thinking HOB or one that will go in your sump? HOB skimmers work but are noisy and you end up with lots of bubbles in your tank. An in-sump skimmer is generally regarded as being much better, especially for larger tanks.

[Osprey]

The other benefit of a sump system is that you can hide away all sorts of other equipment, like heaters, extra live rock, and a place to grow macroalgae to remove waste. The downside is that a sump system is much more expensive than a system without a sump. You'll need to price out the equipment before you decide.

I've never heard of the Theo heater... you may want to consider upgrading to an ebo jager or a visitherm for reliability. Two small heaters are much better than one large one.
Another possible option for upgrading your lights is the new LED Solaris lighting system, which is supposed to lower in price sometime later this year. Unfortunately, even a reduced price makes the initial investment in this fixture very expensive. In the long run, it will save money in electrical costs and bulb replacements (the LED's are supposed to last 10-20 years without burning out, with a 30% light reduction at the 12 year mark).

I would strongly recommend going with Tunze powerheads. You won't regret it.

[Shelley]

You mention you have had your lighting for a year? Alll bulbs change and then lose thier spectrum over time. At the very least you will have to get new bulbs. MH is really the way to go,. you WILL end up switching over at some point.. we all do!:yes: The last fixture I bought is a Sunpod outer orbit fixture. It has 2 150w MH and 4 T5's along with the blue and white moonlight leds. I didnt like the 10K bulbs it came with so I switched the MH's to 20K and then took out 2 of the actenic t5's and changed them to 6500K daylights. Now I have the color I like, its still very bright and I still have 2 actenic bulbs. Its not a cheap fixture tho, but well worth the money as yo get both MH and t5's

Flow.. yes Tunze is the best way to go IMO. They push alot of water, but not in a really harsh way. Also they are programable to some extent and have an option for a light sensor that powers then down to 50% when the lights are off.

I haveno idea what kind of heater you are using.. but a titanium heater is really what you want in a saltwater enviroment. Glass is just going to eventually get broken..the current from a broken heater in saltwater can and will kill everything in your tank very quickly.

Buy the best skimmer you can afford.. this along with your live rock IS your filtration. I use a remora HOB on one tank and am very happy with it. The other tank has a Deltec 600 skimmer.. HOB or in sump.. I have it in my sump. Its an awesome skimmer.. better than the remora but I would NEVER reccomend it as a HOB.. its way too fussy and overflows often.. IE when i feed phyto. the foaming doesnt bother a thing in my sump.. but OMG what a mess it could make if it were HOB. another downside is its price,,, more than twicw the price of the remora pro.

Sump or not... I have one of each. If your glass is tempered you CAN NOT drill it. I have no experiance with a syphon-type overflow, I have no interest in them as it just seems to me too many things can go wrong.. and you end up with 40 gallons of water on your floor.

I hope this helps .

[karoch]

The other benefit of a sump system is that you can hide away all sorts of other equipment, like heaters, extra live rock, and a place to grow macroalgae to remove waste. The downside is that a sump system is much more expensive than a system without a sump. You'll need to price out the equipment before you decide.

I've never heard of the Theo heater... you may want to consider upgrading to an ebo jager or a visitherm for reliability. Two small heaters are much better than one large one.
Another possible option for upgrading your lights is the new LED Solaris lighting system, which is supposed to lower in price sometime later this year. Unfortunately, even a reduced price makes the initial investment in this fixture very expensive. In the long run, it will save money in electrical costs and bulb replacements (the LED's are supposed to last 10-20 years without burning out, with a 30% light reduction at the 12 year mark).

I would strongly recommend going with Tunze powerheads. You won't regret it.


Thanks for these important comments. However, I have two question:

Can I run my aquarium with the lamp I have?
Can I use the powerheads I have just for now? I know these have to be change for something better.

Thanks,

[karoch]

You mention you have had your lighting for a year? Alll bulbs change and then lose thier spectrum over time. At the very least you will have to get new bulbs. MH is really the way to go,. you WILL end up switching over at some point.. we all do!:yes: The last fixture I bought is a Sunpod outer orbit fixture. It has 2 150w MH and 4 T5's along with the blue and white moonlight leds. I didnt like the 10K bulbs it came with so I switched the MH's to 20K and then took out 2 of the actenic t5's and changed them to 6500K daylights. Now I have the color I like, its still very bright and I still have 2 actenic bulbs. Its not a cheap fixture tho, but well worth the money as yo get both MH and t5's

Flow.. yes Tunze is the best way to go IMO. They push alot of water, but not in a really harsh way. Also they are programable to some extent and have an option for a light sensor that powers then down to 50% when the lights are off.

I haveno idea what kind of heater you are using.. but a titanium heater is really what you want in a saltwater enviroment. Glass is just going to eventually get broken..the current from a broken heater in saltwater can and will kill everything in your tank very quickly.

Buy the best skimmer you can afford.. this along with your live rock IS your filtration. I use a remora HOB on one tank and am very happy with it. The other tank has a Deltec 600 skimmer.. HOB or in sump.. I have it in my sump. Its an awesome skimmer.. better than the remora but I would NEVER reccomend it as a HOB.. its way too fussy and overflows often.. IE when i feed phyto. the foaming doesnt bother a thing in my sump.. but OMG what a mess it could make if it were HOB. another downside is its price,,, more than twicw the price of the remora pro.

Sump or not... I have one of each. If your glass is tempered you CAN NOT drill it. I have no experiance with a syphon-type overflow, I have no interest in them as it just seems to me too many things can go wrong.. and you end up with 40 gallons of water on your floor.

I hope this helps .

Hello Shelley, thanks for your comments. I think at this moment I will go with a HOB skimmer. I do not have to much money to spend at this moment. However, I am sure I will upgrade soon. Now my question: Which skimmer wills you recommend to me to start with my 40g tank?

Is there something I can do to get better my lamp. I mean to change the bulbs I have for something different?

Thanks,

[Shelley]

IMO the best HOB skimmer is an AquaC Remora. Thats what I run on my 40 gallon. As far as your lighting, if you have been running those bulbs for a year they are done.
I dont think you will have much choice on bulbs, but 14K is kinda mid spectrum and also pleasent to the eye. The lower the # the brighter the light, better growth, but also yellower to the eye and the corals dont "pop".
20K is much bluer, personally my favorite, but the growth rate is much lower. Now saying all that.. you can go with a lower K.. say a 10,000 and supplement it with some blue ( actenic) to balance the overall visual effect. Or go higher K.. 20K and up the brightness by changing your actenic to a "white" bulb of say 6500K.
Now that I have you totally confused.. your existing lighting will be fine WITH NEW BULBS for some soft corals and mushrooms. Even tho your bulbs still fire, they have shifted spectrum from a years use, and need replaced. All they are good for now is growing algae.:eek:

[karoch]

IMO the best HOB skimmer is an AquaC Remora. Thats what I run on my 40 gallon. As far as your lighting, if you have been running those bulbs for a year they are done.
I dont think you will have much choice on bulbs, but 14K is kinda mid spectrum and also pleasent to the eye. The lower the # the brighter the light, better growth, but also yellower to the eye and the corals dont "pop".
20K is much bluer, personally my favorite, but the growth rate is much lower. Now saying all that.. you can go with a lower K.. say a 10,000 and supplement it with some blue ( actenic) to balance the overall visual effect. Or go higher K.. 20K and up the brightness by changing your actenic to a "white" bulb of say 6500K.
Now that I have you totally confused.. your existing lighting will be fine WITH NEW BULBS for some soft corals and mushrooms. Even tho your bulbs still fire, they have shifted spectrum from a years use, and need replaced. All they are good for now is growing algae.:eek:
Ok. now I have more answers. I going to work on these and I will write with some details about my new setup.

Once again thanks for your help.

[Osprey]

You can keep the old powerheads. It's a good idea to do a weekly debris sweep of the tank, though. Dead spots (areas without any current) will start collecting all sorts of junk. To get rid of them, take one of your powerheads, hold it in your hand, and use it to blow out all the crevices in your live rock. You can get away with a little less current in the tank if you do this diligently every week.

[toniell]

Well I think your lighting is fine on your tank,for maximum growth I would get a 10,000k and a 50/50, that way you will have atinic in there with the important light's, if you do get MH lighting shop around and try to get one off someone who is upgrading themeselves, cuts the cost drastically. I also use a aqua C remora pro on my 75G, If your heater works why replace it but you should get a digital thermometer they are like 10.00$ on e-bay, I agree that tunzes are exellent power heads hydor koria's are very nice also, later if you want to upggrade lighting you could just retrofit 1 more 96 watt bulb in your canopy, or build a whole new canopy, well I hope I have helped!:lobster:

[Shelley]

If your heater works why replace it

This is why....Salt water is an extremly good conductor of electricity. In most marine tanks there are huge amounts of rock and corals. All it takes is a fish, or a snail, or just plain bad luck for a rock to slip and break a glass heater. Broken glass heaters in saltwater will kill every living thing in your tank. I have seen it happen again and again.. so be safe.. spend 30$ more and get a titanium heater. Why cheap out with a glass heater and take the chance of loosing everything you have built up.

This also reminds me.. a saltwater tank should always have a grounding probe.

[Osprey]

Mmmm....
Forget the grounding probe. Put a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interupter) on the tank instead. A ground will save your life if there's current leaking into the tank, but it won't save your fish! All it does is complete the circuit. A GFCI, on the other hand, will cut off power to the tank if any of your equipment starts leaking electricity into the water. Much, much safer. Make sure you have people checking in frequently, though... the last thing you want is for the GFCI to trip while you're on vacation; a tank won't last too terribly long without power.
You can buy the power-outlet type for relatively cheap. They're easy to install, and come with complete instructions.

[karoch]

Hello everyone, I got a 90g. tank and now I have to buy everything for this tank. I got the skimmer from the same seller (Berlin Classic up to 250g) for $50.00 (i think it was a good deal)

However, It is forcing me to buy new stuff for this tank like heaters,
powerheads and lights.

I need some help with my sump. It is my first time with saltwater, so I don't know too much about it. I will appreciate if you can help me with some ideas and how to do it. The tank I have does not have any hole, so I need to drill it but I do not which part of the tank is the best part to do it. I mean, in the top of the tank or the button?

How to built all the sump system?

Believe me any help will be appreciated. Once again thanks for your time and help.

Rodolfo
www.petbaubles.ca (http://www.petbaubles.ca/)

[Osprey]

Is the glass in the bottom tempered? If so, you should only drill the sides. The hole should be near the top to prevent the entire volume of the tank from being able to flow down into the sump (in a power outage, this becomes nasty). Another alternative, since drilling glass is difficult and expensive, is a couple of Tunze overflow boxes, but they aren't cheap, either.
Sumps have a lot of variety. The design will depend on which features you want in your sump. www.wetwebmedia.com (http://www.wetwebmedia.com) has a great section on sump design and construction. Excellent place to read up on that topic.
Decide from the beginning what types of corals, fish and inverts you want to keep, and plan light and current accordingly. Different corals have very different needs... what's good for SPS will often harm softies.

You'll also need to decide on the type of sandbed you want... a shallow (less than one inch) sandbed, deep sand bed (4-6 inches) or bare-bottomed. DSB's produce more pods and can aid in denitrification, but often get clogged up after a few years. Fine aragonite sand is best, IMO.

As mentioned, two smaller heaters are better than one big one. That way, if one of them quits working, or if one of them starts overheating, it's not the same emergency it would be if you only have one big heater.

[Shelley]

We built our sump out of a 33 gallon long tank. Someof the best info I found about sumps is on Melevsreef.com, then click on acrylic DIY.

As posted above, dont even attempt to drill a tank if the glass is tempered.. I dont know a thing about HOB overflows, but an researching right now as I may convert my 100 into marine, and I really dont want to have to try and get it in my elevator again to take it to the glass shop.

Heres a pic of the sump and some of the plumbing we built from ideas on Melevareef. It seems to work really well, and all the plumbing parts were found locally. The skimmer goes in the first chamber. The bigger pipe with the red arrow marked on it is the water from the tank. It splits and part goes to the skimmer and part to the refugium. The smaller line is t he return from the pump back into the tank.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/Carrida/sump006.jpg

[karoch]

Is the glass in the bottom tempered? If so, you should only drill the sides. The hole should be near the top to prevent the entire volume of the tank from being able to flow down into the sump (in a power outage, this becomes nasty). Another alternative, since drilling glass is difficult and expensive, is a couple of Tunze overflow boxes, but they aren't cheap, either.
Sumps have a lot of variety. The design will depend on which features you want in your sump. www.wetwebmedia.com (http://www.wetwebmedia.com) has a great section on sump design and construction. Excellent place to read up on that topic.
Decide from the beginning what types of corals, fish and inverts you want to keep, and plan light and current accordingly. Different corals have very different needs... what's good for SPS will often harm softies.

You'll also need to decide on the type of sandbed you want... a shallow (less than one inch) sandbed, deep sand bed (4-6 inches) or bare-bottomed. DSB's produce more pods and can aid in denitrification, but often get clogged up after a few years. Fine aragonite sand is best, IMO.

As mentioned, two smaller heaters are better than one big one. That way, if one of them quits working, or if one of them starts overheating, it's not the same emergency it would be if you only have one big heater.

I'll check if my tank is tempered and what are my options.

The tank I got come with water and Live Sand & Crushed Coral. It's well seeded and even includes some polyps and Blue Legged Hermit Crabs.

Thanks.

[karoch]

We built our sump out of a 33 gallon long tank. Someof the best info I found about sumps is on Melevsreef.com, then click on acrylic DIY.


I will check this site.

As posted above, dont even attempt to drill a tank if the glass is tempered.. I dont know a thing about HOB overflows, but an researching right now as I may convert my 100 into marine, and I really dont want to have to try and get it in my elevator again to take it to the glass shop.


I was thinking in that option too but I do not how safe it will be. I mean, I wont the water goes out my tank or something like that. Now if you find some options let me know in order to get some new ideas.

Heres a pic of the sump and some of the plumbing we built from ideas on Melevareef. It seems to work really well, and all the plumbing parts were found locally. The skimmer goes in the first chamber. The bigger pipe with the red arrow marked on it is the water from the tank. It splits and part goes to the skimmer and part to the refugium. The smaller line is t he return from the pump back into the tank.


Shelley it is a great picture. It is very clear and graphic. Now I can build my own sump.

When you say "The skimmer goes in the first chamber" you are talking about the left chamber, right?

How many heaters are in your tank?

Could you please send me more pictures of the design of the sump? I mean pipes and return system?

33g sump will be ok for me? Remember my new tank is 90g.

My skimmer came with pump. However, I think I'll need another one for my tank's return system. What kind of pump I will need?

Shelley once again thanks for your time. I appreciated all your help.

Rodolfo
www.petbaubles.com (http://www.petbaubles.com)

[Shelley]

I will check this site.



I was thinking in that option too but I do not how safe it will be. I mean, I wont the water goes out my tank or something like that. Now if you find some options let me know in order to get some new ideas.



Shelley it is a great picture. It is very clear and graphic. Now I can build my own sump.

When you say "The skimmer goes in the first chamber" you are talking about the left chamber, right?Correct, the chamber on the left, the right hand chamber is the refugium.

How many heaters are in your tank?I have one heater. The glass one in the picture was replaced with a titanium heater that has an external control box.

Could you please send me more pictures of the design of the sump? I mean pipes and return system?Thats really the best pic I can get. All the other pipes are under and in the back of the tank.

33g sump will be ok for me? Remember my new tank is 90g.Go as big as you can. I was limited on space under my tank.. so a 33 gallon was what fit. Dont go smaller tho.

My skimmer came with pump. However, I think I'll need another one for my tank's return system. What kind of pump I will need?Lots of pumps available. Do some research. I got a eheim and am very pleased with it. Size depends on the height of your return line. GHP drops the higher a pump has to pump.

Shelley once again thanks for your time. I appreciated all your help.Anytime Rodolfo. Cheers Shelley

Rodolfo
www.petbaubles.com (http://www.petbaubles.com)

Hope this helps

[karoch]

Hello everybody, I almost finish setting up my new 90 gallons. I will send some pictures soon. However, I am working on my lights and I need some extra help.

I got two ballasts (4 bulbs T5). Now I need to buy my new bulbs and I need some ideas about what kind of bulbs should I buy?. I will appreciate any help about it.

Thanks,