How to re-seal a tank?

[thegrandpoohbah]

I have a leaky 20G that I want to re-seal. Problem is I have no clue where to start. Can anybody point me in the right direction? Any tips/pointers from people that have done it before? If it makes a difference, the last occupants of the tank were a pair of gerbils. Thanks.

[blainep]

There is an excellent article on Alberta Aquatica for resealing tanks.

http://albertaaquatica.com/index.php?showtopic=11713&hl=

I was going to type out all the instructions, but if someone else already has, I'll point you over there. :laugh:

For silicone sealer, GE 1200 series is supposed to be the best, but it is expensive. I've had great success with GE Silicone 1 for windows and doors.
Canadian tire brand silicone works well also.
The only big deal to watch for is the kitchen and bath type silicone because it contains anti fungal agents that will kill your fish !!!

Single edge razor blades can be found in the paint dept. of any hardware store.

As for the 'how to', I don't bother to use the masking tape to make perfect looking seams, you can do a good looking job without it.

[Melody]

Very good article:smile:

[thegrandpoohbah]

Thanks! I did a google search and found that same article on Aquarticles.com. I'm going to give it a try tomorrow. If it works out then I can eventually re-seal the 30G cube and the 55G that I recently picked up.

One more question though: what about the silicone that is between the glass? I always assumed that you had to strip off ALL the old silicone and pretty much dismantle the tank. Is that not necessary?

[blainep]

On smaller, framed tanks I wouldn't worry to much about the silicone between the glass, the new bead of silicone should provide lots of strength and the frame will help keep things in place.
On a larger tank, say 40 50 gals or more, I would dismantle the tank and completely reseal it. I would be tempted to completely reseal a frameless tank also.

The 15 and 20 gallon tanks I resealed for my first tank rack just got a clean out and reseal similar to what is described in the article. On a couple of tanks that I had to replace glass in, I found that it was difficult to remove the frame without damaging the glass.

The frames are siliconed on and must come off completely straight, otherwise you'll end up with a frame with a corner of your glass still stuck to it. I imagine with thicker glass, it would be easier to remove the frame without damage.

If the 20 gal is going to be the first resealing attempt, I wouldn't worry about dismantling the tank. It will work well with just the seams being resealed.

[Melody]

Good question & good answer :yes: . Glad someone is mechanically inclined around here, because I'm certainly not :rolleyes: . I'd love to see the work as you go Mr. GP, if at all possible.

[Soggybottom]

I don't bother to use the masking tape to make perfect looking seams, you can do a good looking job without it.

You must have pickpocket's hands (a compliment :), I've never tried this but I can't imagine it being easy!

[blainep]

You must have pickpocket's hands (a compliment :), I've never tried this but I can't imagine it being easy!

The biggest deal with keeping a decent looking bead is not to use to much silicone.
If you cut the tip of the tube to about a 45 degree angle, when you apply it to the glass, you can use the angle to push the silicone into the corners.

Then just gently use your fingertip to smooth out the silicone, try to do this with one smooth motion, the more you touch silicone, the worse it looks.
With a little practice, this will give you a decent looking bead.

[blainep]

An excellent article has been done on Alberta Aquatica regarding resealing tanks.

http://albertaaquatica.com/index.php?showtopic=11713

If you still have questions, don't hesitate to ask. This is here to act as a guide.

[BC Mosaic]

"Then just gently use your fingertip to smooth out the silicone, try to do this with one smooth motion, the more you touch silicone, the worse it looks.
With a little practice, this will give you a decent looking bead."

But make sure that your fingers are wet when you spread the silicone. It makes it easier to spread and not stick to the skin as much. Wet fingers everytime after wiping the excess silicone off your fingers. I usually keep a small container of water handy and lots of paper to wipe down the fingers.
Good luck
Cheers

[Melody]

This is shaping up to be a sticky (no pun intended), but I'll leave that up to the topic mod. :smile:

Oh wait, I AM the topic mod...lol...should we put this in "DIY", Blaine?

[blainep]

This is shaping up to be a sticky (no pun intended), but I'll leave that up to the topic mod. :smile:

Oh wait, I AM the topic mod...lol...should we put this in "DIY", Blaine?

I've already posted a sticky in the DIY thread to the AA article, but this can go there as well, a few more tips and tricks are always a good thing.

[Melody]

I merged them. You can clean up our off topic posts after you get this message if you like.

Thanks!

[PintoHawk]

I have finally completed an illustrated guide. This can be found on the LAS website (which, as I type this, is still under construction).
http://www.lethbridgeaquariumsociety.com/articles/resealing_tank.html

[PPulcher]

Great illustrations!

[thegrandpoohbah]

I have finally completed an illustrated guide. This can be found on the LAS website (which, as I type this, is still under construction).
http://www.lethbridgeaquariumsociety.com/articles/resealing_tank.html
If I may critique your guide: the way you have illustrated the masking tape would leave un-siliconed gaps at all four bottom corners. In the illustration for step 7, any masking tape that is underneath the blue line that represents silicone should be trimmed away with the razor blade first.

I would also add in step 7 that if you get silicone anywhere else, don't try to wipe it off right away or it will smear. Just wait until it cures and it is easily scraped away with the razor.

Otherwise, nicely done.

[PintoHawk]

Very good suggestions, Poohbah, thank you! I will tweak this later when I get home. :D
Thanks both of you.

[PintoHawk]

Ok, I changed it, I had to alter 4 of the images, but it makes more sense now. :)

[KristaLynn]

Looks like I'm going to be trying my hand at this. :confused: My 10g is leaking I assume it's the leak my dad fixed over 10 years ago. It's the top front corner but I assume I'm better off to re-do the whole tank than to just spot fix?
Is it likely my hardware store will have something I can use or should I order something online?

[blainep]

Looks like I'm going to be trying my hand at this. :confused: My 10g is leaking I assume it's the leak my dad fixed over 10 years ago. It's the top front corner but I assume I'm better off to re-do the whole tank than to just spot fix?
Is it likely my hardware store will have something I can use or should I order something online?

Your local hardware store should be fine. You'll need some single edge razor blades, masking tape ( to make it pretty ) and some 100 % silicone sealer.

Note - I've read some reports lately that GE may have changed the formula to it's GE Silicone 2. It seems to be leaching toxins into the water.

Home Hardware and Canadian Tire/Mastercraft make a silicone sealer that is labelled safe for aquariums and I know GE Silicone 1 for windows and doors is safe and works well.
Be sure not to use any sealer for kitchens and bathrooms because they contain anti mildew/fungus agents.

Other than that, just make sure you get all of the old silicone off and be careful not to break the glass. A 10 gallon has pretty thin glass.

Post lots of pictures, they help alot for other people thinking about trying this out. ::D:

[KristaLynn]

Other than that, just make sure you get all of the old silicone off and be careful not to break the glass. A 10 gallon has pretty thin glass.



Uh...thanks? :eek: I'll post pictures of myself crying over a broken tank. :wink:

[Sweetpea]

Uh...thanks? :eek: I'll post pictures of myself crying over a broken tank. :wink:

Oh no! So sorry that that happened to you. :CRY: This is a scary thread...don't want to get to the point where I need it any time soon!!

[CACAdmin]

Best of luck Krista.

[KristaLynn]

I should have asked how much I'd need. I got one 300ml tube and I've never caulked anything before in my life (I had to buy the gun too) so will this be enough or should I buy another one before I start?

[jewels]

I've never caulked anything before in my life

Take a few practice doodles. Just like suturing, quite relaxing once you get the hang of it. Familiarize yourself with it - try sealing the inside corners of a cardboard box for starts.
Make sure you can get the flow to stop afterwards, most guns have a lever that the piston passes through. This lever is your friend.

There may also be a pin that swings out of the gun. Use this pin to puncture the foil hiding under the applicating tip , and for re-puncturing upon subsequent usage.

When initialy opening the tube the size and angle of your cut are important.

That tube should seal a 10 gallon or two.

,,,and have fun. You have iced a cake before, right?
You are already one step ahead of anyone who has not.:High_Five:

[MichaelC]

Where are people getting their silicone? I can not seem to find any here (MJ Sask), tried Walmart, Canadian Tire, and Home Depot and could not find any including GE silicone one that did not say not for aquarium use?

Mike

[blainep]

Where are people getting their silicone? I can not seem to find any here (MJ Sask), tried Walmart, Canadian Tire, and Home Depot and could not find any including GE silicone one that did not say not for aquarium use?

Mike

All GE silicones say they are not for aquarium use except the 1200 series (High strength). This way people can no longer sue GE for damage caused by poorly re-sealed tanks.

As long as you use 100% silicone sealer with no antibacterial additives and let it cure fully before filling the tank you should be fine.

[KristaLynn]

MichaelC I went to my local Home Hardware and asked for Aquarium safe silicone. They gave me a tube of "Weather Shield Best 35 year Durability" silicone it says safe for aquariums right on the front of it. It's a white, green and tealish coloured tube.

I'm working on my tank tonight and the caulking around the bottom of it still looks good can I leave that and just caulk the uprights? I've already cleaned out all four corners and compaired to the amount of caulking on the bottom the uprights were just about bare.

[blainep]

I'm working on my tank tonight and the caulking around the bottom of it still looks good can I leave that and just caulk the uprights? I've already cleaned out all four corners and compaired to the amount of caulking on the bottom the uprights were just about bare.

If it looks good and was holding water before, it should be fine.

[KristaLynn]

Okay I think I should be banned from the DIY section. :eek: I don't know what else could have gone wrong with that re-caulking, I am so glad I wasn't doing the bottom too.

First of all I did not get a 45 degree cut on my tip and then I didn't know you were supposed to poke inside the tip. Yeah I'm sure some of you know where this is going. I burst the tube. After that I poked inside the tip and then I had caulking coming out of both ends of the gun non-stop. There was no "laying a bead" going on here, there was just damage control. It's not pretty but if it holds water I'll probably retire that brand new caulking gun for a couple years until the memories fade.

Do not expect pictures of my caulking job! :laugh:

[Bina]

Okay I think I should be banned from the DIY section. :eek: I don't know what else could have gone wrong with that re-caulking, I am so glad I wasn't doing the bottom too.

First of all I did not get a 45 degree cut on my tip and then I didn't know you were supposed to poke inside the tip. Yeah I'm sure some of you know where this is going. I burst the tube. After that I poked inside the tip and then I had caulking coming out of both ends of the gun non-stop. There was no "laying a bead" going on here, there was just damage control. It's not pretty but if it holds water I'll probably retire that brand new caulking gun for a couple years until the memories fade.

Do not expect pictures of my caulking job! :laugh:
Are we going to see you on "Funniest Videos" or You Tube ?:wink:

[CACAdmin]

Krista... put it down to a learning experience. Someday, you'll seal a tank like a pro and wonder why you ever found it difficult.

[KristaLynn]

Bina it would have been a hilarious video except for me screaming at the camera person to put it down and come help me!

Jay the problem is I know myself and right now I'm trying to decide if I want to scrap out all that caulking and try again because looking at it for the next few years really doesn't make me happy.

[Bina]

Well then, don't let it get to you....Scrape that gunk off and try again :-)

[CACAdmin]

Well then, don't let it get to you....Scrape that gunk off and try again :-)
:yes: I agree. Give it another try... after all they say, practice makes perfect.

[mikebike]

now is the easiest time to re seal it.
let it dry/cure overnight to make cutting it out again.

Clean the surface and get out a fresh tube and apply what you have learned.

Sometimes experiences users forget simple (We find) steps we used.

things like poking the center of the tube<G>


When you are finished put a long screw into the end of the nozzle to plug it. The threads will help hold on to the cured silicone pug allowing you to use the tube contents till used up.