CACAdmin
Dec 2nd 2006, 11:59 PM
Being still somewhat of a ‘newbie’ to fish-keeping, I thought I’d share hints and some things I have learned (sometimes the hard way) over the past year as an aid to others just starting out in this fascinating hobby.
The Tank:
First rule of thumb is get the biggest tank you can afford. It is also easier to maintain a stable environment for you fish in a large tank. That said, there, there are several things to consider:
Where can I place this tank?
This may seem simple but remember you need accessible electrical outlets for your heater, filter and light. Remember, once the tank is filled, you can’t move it so ensure that it is easily accessible to maintain as you will be doing regular water changes, etc. (Preferably accessible for all or at least 3 sides.) Also, it should be placed (if possible) away from a window. The reason is twofold. Sunlight will cause an abundance of algae to grow and secondly, if the tank is situated next to a window it will prove more difficult to control the temperature (especially keeping it cool in the summer, in winter the greater impact is on your electricity bill.)
What if I can’t avoid a window?
Position the tank such that you minimize exposure to direct sunlight and temperature changes. If you place the tank in a corner with the back of it to the window, one side is protected from the sunlight and you can cover the back with a layer of heavy black construction paper. (Placing printed background on as the first layer and then overlaying it with the construction paper. This keeps the light out and provides a small amount of insulation against the cold. Also keeping the drapes or window coverings closed behind the tank will help. The addition of snails and/or algae-eaters helps to control the excess algae.
Will the floor support the weight?
Remember water weighs 10 lbs per gallon. Add the weight of the tank and stand to that and even a small tank (20G) comes in well over 200 lbs. I imagine concrete and steel construction building are generally better able to support the weight and wood-frame construction is more of a concern. I highly recommend you check the building construction (and floor joists) and consult experts before setting up a large tank. You inadvertently might find your tank and fish in the basement !
What about tank shape?
Basically this is a matter of choice. However, keep in mind that ‘tall’ tanks have less surface area (for oxygen) for your fish than a same-size ‘long’ tank. Also the depth of tall tanks can make accessing the bottom more difficult if you are of smaller stature.
Planted or Unplanted Tank?
This is your choice, however some fish have special requirements so keep that in mind. Some prefer aquatic vegetation, some require lots of open water. If you opt for a planted tank and want to add snails as an algae control measure, make certain that you add ‘plant safe’ snails. For assistance in determining which snails are ‘plant safe’ see the article: Snails: Plant Eater or Not? (http://www.canadianaquariumconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=258)The Stand:
An aquarium is very heavy (water weighs 10 lbs per gallon). Add the weight of the tank and stand to that and even a small tank (20G) comes in well over 200 lbs. You need a stand which will support that weight (ideally one designed explicitly for that purpose).
Ideally, the stand should be metal or solid wood. Particle board will turn to mush and loose its strength if it gets wet. Remember, there will always water drips (no matter how careful you are). Also there can be leaks (not only the tank but also from the filter).
Stand height?
This is a personal choice as to what works with your room, and what you find aesthetically pleasing. However, keep one thing in mind. Although a higher stand allows for more storage space below the tank, you need to access all the interior surfaces of the tank (for cleaning, aquascaping, etc.) The higher the stand, the more difficult this will be. You may find yourself having to dig out a step-stool or small ladder not only to do regular maintenance but even for simple tasks like netting a fish!Heaters:
There are a number of aquarium heaters. Buy one rated for the size of your tank. If you buy one which cannot be entirely immersed in water, you must remember to keep your tank topped up to ensure the water level does not fall below the minimum level marked on the heater. With a heater which is rated totally immersible, this is not a concern.
Tank Inhabitants:
Which fish?
So you decided you want an aquarium with some fish in it. It’s not as simple as that. The number and type of fish are key. You must ensure you have compatible tank-mates. Research your choice. What you consider aesthetically pleasing to the eye might not work. Aside from the obvious choice of Freshwater or Marine inhabitants, all aquatic critters have their own specific requirements as to water parameters: some like hard water, some soft, varying PH preferences. Then, of course, there are ‘community fish’, 'schooling fish', and aggressive ones. Amongst other requirements, there are ones which prefer planted tanks, those that prefer open water, and those that need caves.
How many?
Basically, there are two accepted ‘generalized’ ways to calculate how many fish you can accommodate in your tank. (Note these guidelines and you should stock according to the adult size to which your fish will grow, not their current size.)
1 inch of adult fish length to 1 gallon of water
I inch of adult fish length to 12 sq. inches of surface area (tropical marine species requiring more)Also note, these are averages, so if in doubt, less fish is better because overstocking causes stress which leads to fish being more susceptibe to illness. You don’t want sick and dying fish!
Cycling the tank (the nitrogen cycle):
This is one of the most important aspects of setting up your new tank. I initially read a number of books which explained things scientifically and still didn’t grasp it entirely and dismissed it’s importance. So I will try to present this in a simplified manner:
Fish waste and uneaten food produce ammonia (extremely toxic to fish)
Bacteria converts the ammonia to nitrites (less toxic)
Another type of bacteria converts nitrites to nitrates (toxic to fish at higher levels).The key is the bacteria. It forms slowly mostly on surfaces such as the gravel and filter media. Until there is sufficient bacteria for the conversion process there will be ammonia and nitrite spikes. (Nitrates are used by plants and the excess are removed by doing water changes). While you are establishing your new tank, do not replace the filter media (you’re throwing away all that good bacteria).
The essential starting ingredient is ammonia (whether you add a couple of critters to produce ammonia through their waste or you use household ammonia for ‘fishless cycling’).
Adding a couple of aquatic snails are good way to cycle a new tank as they are large waste producers and are subject to the same spikes as fish. However, the have the option of exiting the water for short periods to escape these spikes (and in doing so are a great indicator that toxic levels are high and a water change is required).
The time which it takes to cycle a tank can range from 4-6 weeks. ‘Seeding’ a tank with gravel, decorations and filter media from an established tank can greatly reduce this time.
Also, keep in mind that you must add your fish slowly (a few at a time) as this immediately increases the bio-load and you must give the bacteria time to multiply to handle the increased load.
Most of all, have fun, enjoy your fish and ask lots of questions. (i wish I had asked more initially.) One of the best things about this hobby is that there is always something new and fascinating to learn.:yes:
Sources:
Personal experience and general knowledge I have accrued form various fish-keepers (which include members of Canadian Aquarium Connection).
The Simple Guide to Freshwater Aquariums by David E. Boruchowitz
The Aquarium Owner's Manual by Gina Sandford
=======================
You are welcome to link to this post if it would be useful to other hobbyists. However, please do not copy and paste all or part of it. Thank you.
=======================
The Tank:
First rule of thumb is get the biggest tank you can afford. It is also easier to maintain a stable environment for you fish in a large tank. That said, there, there are several things to consider:
Where can I place this tank?
This may seem simple but remember you need accessible electrical outlets for your heater, filter and light. Remember, once the tank is filled, you can’t move it so ensure that it is easily accessible to maintain as you will be doing regular water changes, etc. (Preferably accessible for all or at least 3 sides.) Also, it should be placed (if possible) away from a window. The reason is twofold. Sunlight will cause an abundance of algae to grow and secondly, if the tank is situated next to a window it will prove more difficult to control the temperature (especially keeping it cool in the summer, in winter the greater impact is on your electricity bill.)
What if I can’t avoid a window?
Position the tank such that you minimize exposure to direct sunlight and temperature changes. If you place the tank in a corner with the back of it to the window, one side is protected from the sunlight and you can cover the back with a layer of heavy black construction paper. (Placing printed background on as the first layer and then overlaying it with the construction paper. This keeps the light out and provides a small amount of insulation against the cold. Also keeping the drapes or window coverings closed behind the tank will help. The addition of snails and/or algae-eaters helps to control the excess algae.
Will the floor support the weight?
Remember water weighs 10 lbs per gallon. Add the weight of the tank and stand to that and even a small tank (20G) comes in well over 200 lbs. I imagine concrete and steel construction building are generally better able to support the weight and wood-frame construction is more of a concern. I highly recommend you check the building construction (and floor joists) and consult experts before setting up a large tank. You inadvertently might find your tank and fish in the basement !
What about tank shape?
Basically this is a matter of choice. However, keep in mind that ‘tall’ tanks have less surface area (for oxygen) for your fish than a same-size ‘long’ tank. Also the depth of tall tanks can make accessing the bottom more difficult if you are of smaller stature.
Planted or Unplanted Tank?
This is your choice, however some fish have special requirements so keep that in mind. Some prefer aquatic vegetation, some require lots of open water. If you opt for a planted tank and want to add snails as an algae control measure, make certain that you add ‘plant safe’ snails. For assistance in determining which snails are ‘plant safe’ see the article: Snails: Plant Eater or Not? (http://www.canadianaquariumconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=258)The Stand:
An aquarium is very heavy (water weighs 10 lbs per gallon). Add the weight of the tank and stand to that and even a small tank (20G) comes in well over 200 lbs. You need a stand which will support that weight (ideally one designed explicitly for that purpose).
Ideally, the stand should be metal or solid wood. Particle board will turn to mush and loose its strength if it gets wet. Remember, there will always water drips (no matter how careful you are). Also there can be leaks (not only the tank but also from the filter).
Stand height?
This is a personal choice as to what works with your room, and what you find aesthetically pleasing. However, keep one thing in mind. Although a higher stand allows for more storage space below the tank, you need to access all the interior surfaces of the tank (for cleaning, aquascaping, etc.) The higher the stand, the more difficult this will be. You may find yourself having to dig out a step-stool or small ladder not only to do regular maintenance but even for simple tasks like netting a fish!Heaters:
There are a number of aquarium heaters. Buy one rated for the size of your tank. If you buy one which cannot be entirely immersed in water, you must remember to keep your tank topped up to ensure the water level does not fall below the minimum level marked on the heater. With a heater which is rated totally immersible, this is not a concern.
Tank Inhabitants:
Which fish?
So you decided you want an aquarium with some fish in it. It’s not as simple as that. The number and type of fish are key. You must ensure you have compatible tank-mates. Research your choice. What you consider aesthetically pleasing to the eye might not work. Aside from the obvious choice of Freshwater or Marine inhabitants, all aquatic critters have their own specific requirements as to water parameters: some like hard water, some soft, varying PH preferences. Then, of course, there are ‘community fish’, 'schooling fish', and aggressive ones. Amongst other requirements, there are ones which prefer planted tanks, those that prefer open water, and those that need caves.
How many?
Basically, there are two accepted ‘generalized’ ways to calculate how many fish you can accommodate in your tank. (Note these guidelines and you should stock according to the adult size to which your fish will grow, not their current size.)
1 inch of adult fish length to 1 gallon of water
I inch of adult fish length to 12 sq. inches of surface area (tropical marine species requiring more)Also note, these are averages, so if in doubt, less fish is better because overstocking causes stress which leads to fish being more susceptibe to illness. You don’t want sick and dying fish!
Cycling the tank (the nitrogen cycle):
This is one of the most important aspects of setting up your new tank. I initially read a number of books which explained things scientifically and still didn’t grasp it entirely and dismissed it’s importance. So I will try to present this in a simplified manner:
Fish waste and uneaten food produce ammonia (extremely toxic to fish)
Bacteria converts the ammonia to nitrites (less toxic)
Another type of bacteria converts nitrites to nitrates (toxic to fish at higher levels).The key is the bacteria. It forms slowly mostly on surfaces such as the gravel and filter media. Until there is sufficient bacteria for the conversion process there will be ammonia and nitrite spikes. (Nitrates are used by plants and the excess are removed by doing water changes). While you are establishing your new tank, do not replace the filter media (you’re throwing away all that good bacteria).
The essential starting ingredient is ammonia (whether you add a couple of critters to produce ammonia through their waste or you use household ammonia for ‘fishless cycling’).
Adding a couple of aquatic snails are good way to cycle a new tank as they are large waste producers and are subject to the same spikes as fish. However, the have the option of exiting the water for short periods to escape these spikes (and in doing so are a great indicator that toxic levels are high and a water change is required).
The time which it takes to cycle a tank can range from 4-6 weeks. ‘Seeding’ a tank with gravel, decorations and filter media from an established tank can greatly reduce this time.
Also, keep in mind that you must add your fish slowly (a few at a time) as this immediately increases the bio-load and you must give the bacteria time to multiply to handle the increased load.
Most of all, have fun, enjoy your fish and ask lots of questions. (i wish I had asked more initially.) One of the best things about this hobby is that there is always something new and fascinating to learn.:yes:
Sources:
Personal experience and general knowledge I have accrued form various fish-keepers (which include members of Canadian Aquarium Connection).
The Simple Guide to Freshwater Aquariums by David E. Boruchowitz
The Aquarium Owner's Manual by Gina Sandford
=======================
You are welcome to link to this post if it would be useful to other hobbyists. However, please do not copy and paste all or part of it. Thank you.
=======================