chem
Nov 30th 2008, 09:18 PM
The following was an article that I submitted to the KWAS (Kitchener Waterloo Aquarium Society) about a year ago. I have submitted a few but this one I think I like the most.
The Green You Don’t Want in Your Tank!
Part of the growing pains of having a planted tank is learning to deal with and accept the fact that a completely algae free tank is impossible. Keep in mind, the difference between an almost algae free tank and one that has become overrun with algae is because of nutrient imbalances within your system. Green Spot, Green Dust, Blue Green, Hair, Thread, Black Beard, Staghorn and Cladophora are just a few types of algae that may be present in a tank. There are many taxonomic variants of each of these algae’s as well. The taxonomic classification of each of these is still hotly debated and will not be discussed in this article. This article will focus on trying to create a system where algae are kept to a minimum.
The reason I like planted tanks so much is the challenge associated with keeping a balanced system. Light and concentrations of nutrients must be kept within certain ranges to insure optimal plant growth. Deviations outside of these optimal parameters lead to rapid increase in the biomass of algae. Simply put, an explosion of algae in your tank will occur.
High tech vs. Low tech Tanks
At this point it would seem appropriate to distinguish the high tech planted systems from the low tech planted systems. High tech planted tanks have lighting, which usually exceed the 3-Watts Per Gallon (WPG) general rule. They also are injected with CO2 using pressurized cylinders and are heavily fertilized with Nitrates (NO3), Phosphates (PO4), Iron (Fe), Trace elements, and Potassium (K). The low-tech systems also include fertilization but in significantly lower concentrations. Carbon dioxide is either not injected or injected in small quantities. Finally the lighting for the low-tech tanks falls below the general 3 WPG rule.
In each case the balance of nutrients and light must be kept within certain ranges. Typical operating values of nutrients for high tech systems are: PO4 – 5ppm, NO3 – 15ppm, Fe – 1ppm and CO2 – 30ppm. These values represent the best growing conditions for plants. When one or a number of the values change (higher or lower) the growing conditions for plants are no longer optimal. THIS IS WHEN ALGAE BEGINS TO DOMINATE.
With both types of setups the plants absorb the nutrients for the growth and photosynthetic process. The main difference being, the high tech systems absorb and use the nutrients at a much greater rate. I will try to focus the rest of this article on the low-tech setups because I know that there are many more people out with these setups.
Low-tech tanks still require the same operating values as listed above but they need to be proportionally decreased. For example, normal atmospheric diffusion rates of CO2 will allow any aquarium to have approximately 2-3ppm. Based on this, if I were to setup a new low-tech tank I would target my nutrient values at: PO4 – 1ppm, NO3 – 5ppm, Fe- 0.5ppm and CO2 – 2-3ppm.
The Nutrients
Where do these nutrients come from? Your nitrates come from biological waste generated by the fish. Fish urine and human urine have high concentrations of Nitrogen in them. Phosphates mainly come from the food that you feed your fish. Iron comes from the planted substrate that you have chosen. Trace minerals come from your water changes. Potassium can also come from the food or from your water changes. These sources of nutrients tend not reach the balanced target levels mentioned above. This is where the introduction of nutrients into your aquarium will be necessary. A general all-purpose fertilizer, like Seachem’s Flourish, is the best method for doing this.
The Source of Algae
Where does the algae originate? Some may come from atmospheric spores but most often they hitchhike on the plants that you purchase. It only takes small filamentous fibers to introduce particular algae into a tank. That is why many people bleach dip their plants prior to introducing them to their tanks. This is not a cure-all for algae but rather reduces the likelihood of having an algae breakout.
Getting Rid of Algae
How do you get rid of alga once it is present? If there were an easy solution then the fun and challenging nature of planted tanks would be gone. All one can do, once you have it present, is to take steps to remove it and take steps to address the reasons why it rapidly multiplied to begin with. First and foremost is to physically remove as much algae as possible with your fingers, tweezers or a toothbrush. Next step is to determine what your water parameters are by using or borrowing a test kit from someone. If you have algae I think you will find your nutrient levels are significantly skewed. Many times this is a result of overfeeding or under-fertilization. Get your levels in balance by doing a 75% water change and retest your water. Try to get your nutrient levels to a zero value; if that requires further water changes than so be it. Once they are at the zero value add your all-purpose nutrient at the recommended dose on the bottle for a new setup. Follow the directions on the bottle thereafter; usually it calls for fertilizing every other day. After that do a weekly 50% water change and once a month retest your water to address any deficiencies.
Flourish Excel
This product, produced by Seachem, is a must for every planted tank in my opinion. It is marketed as a liquid Carbon source for plants but it has the unique ability to kill many forms of algae; although not all. Once your tank has become relatively algae free add this product on an every other day basis. If you happen to notice some algae getting a foothold in your tank get a small syringe (pipette) and directly dose the excel on the algae. Do this for a week or two and many times it will disappear.
Clean Up Crew
Every planted tank needs a clean up crew which feeds off of algae and helps to prevent algae from getting established. Siamese Algae Eaters (SAE), Otto’s, Bristle nose Plecos, Amano and Cherry Shrimp and a few other will greatly assist you.
Conclusion
In conclusion, never forget that algae, from an evolutionary standpoint, have been around on this earth for perhaps as long as 3-4 billion years. They have “watched” the entire history of life unfold in front of them. They have adapted and radiated into almost all ecological niches. There is a reason why they are so successful; they are “biologically smart”. Recognize and even appreciate the fact that they are “biologically smarter” than all of us! If you can accept that than it makes it much easier to deal with the fact that you will always have some algae in your tanks.
The Green You Don’t Want in Your Tank!
Part of the growing pains of having a planted tank is learning to deal with and accept the fact that a completely algae free tank is impossible. Keep in mind, the difference between an almost algae free tank and one that has become overrun with algae is because of nutrient imbalances within your system. Green Spot, Green Dust, Blue Green, Hair, Thread, Black Beard, Staghorn and Cladophora are just a few types of algae that may be present in a tank. There are many taxonomic variants of each of these algae’s as well. The taxonomic classification of each of these is still hotly debated and will not be discussed in this article. This article will focus on trying to create a system where algae are kept to a minimum.
The reason I like planted tanks so much is the challenge associated with keeping a balanced system. Light and concentrations of nutrients must be kept within certain ranges to insure optimal plant growth. Deviations outside of these optimal parameters lead to rapid increase in the biomass of algae. Simply put, an explosion of algae in your tank will occur.
High tech vs. Low tech Tanks
At this point it would seem appropriate to distinguish the high tech planted systems from the low tech planted systems. High tech planted tanks have lighting, which usually exceed the 3-Watts Per Gallon (WPG) general rule. They also are injected with CO2 using pressurized cylinders and are heavily fertilized with Nitrates (NO3), Phosphates (PO4), Iron (Fe), Trace elements, and Potassium (K). The low-tech systems also include fertilization but in significantly lower concentrations. Carbon dioxide is either not injected or injected in small quantities. Finally the lighting for the low-tech tanks falls below the general 3 WPG rule.
In each case the balance of nutrients and light must be kept within certain ranges. Typical operating values of nutrients for high tech systems are: PO4 – 5ppm, NO3 – 15ppm, Fe – 1ppm and CO2 – 30ppm. These values represent the best growing conditions for plants. When one or a number of the values change (higher or lower) the growing conditions for plants are no longer optimal. THIS IS WHEN ALGAE BEGINS TO DOMINATE.
With both types of setups the plants absorb the nutrients for the growth and photosynthetic process. The main difference being, the high tech systems absorb and use the nutrients at a much greater rate. I will try to focus the rest of this article on the low-tech setups because I know that there are many more people out with these setups.
Low-tech tanks still require the same operating values as listed above but they need to be proportionally decreased. For example, normal atmospheric diffusion rates of CO2 will allow any aquarium to have approximately 2-3ppm. Based on this, if I were to setup a new low-tech tank I would target my nutrient values at: PO4 – 1ppm, NO3 – 5ppm, Fe- 0.5ppm and CO2 – 2-3ppm.
The Nutrients
Where do these nutrients come from? Your nitrates come from biological waste generated by the fish. Fish urine and human urine have high concentrations of Nitrogen in them. Phosphates mainly come from the food that you feed your fish. Iron comes from the planted substrate that you have chosen. Trace minerals come from your water changes. Potassium can also come from the food or from your water changes. These sources of nutrients tend not reach the balanced target levels mentioned above. This is where the introduction of nutrients into your aquarium will be necessary. A general all-purpose fertilizer, like Seachem’s Flourish, is the best method for doing this.
The Source of Algae
Where does the algae originate? Some may come from atmospheric spores but most often they hitchhike on the plants that you purchase. It only takes small filamentous fibers to introduce particular algae into a tank. That is why many people bleach dip their plants prior to introducing them to their tanks. This is not a cure-all for algae but rather reduces the likelihood of having an algae breakout.
Getting Rid of Algae
How do you get rid of alga once it is present? If there were an easy solution then the fun and challenging nature of planted tanks would be gone. All one can do, once you have it present, is to take steps to remove it and take steps to address the reasons why it rapidly multiplied to begin with. First and foremost is to physically remove as much algae as possible with your fingers, tweezers or a toothbrush. Next step is to determine what your water parameters are by using or borrowing a test kit from someone. If you have algae I think you will find your nutrient levels are significantly skewed. Many times this is a result of overfeeding or under-fertilization. Get your levels in balance by doing a 75% water change and retest your water. Try to get your nutrient levels to a zero value; if that requires further water changes than so be it. Once they are at the zero value add your all-purpose nutrient at the recommended dose on the bottle for a new setup. Follow the directions on the bottle thereafter; usually it calls for fertilizing every other day. After that do a weekly 50% water change and once a month retest your water to address any deficiencies.
Flourish Excel
This product, produced by Seachem, is a must for every planted tank in my opinion. It is marketed as a liquid Carbon source for plants but it has the unique ability to kill many forms of algae; although not all. Once your tank has become relatively algae free add this product on an every other day basis. If you happen to notice some algae getting a foothold in your tank get a small syringe (pipette) and directly dose the excel on the algae. Do this for a week or two and many times it will disappear.
Clean Up Crew
Every planted tank needs a clean up crew which feeds off of algae and helps to prevent algae from getting established. Siamese Algae Eaters (SAE), Otto’s, Bristle nose Plecos, Amano and Cherry Shrimp and a few other will greatly assist you.
Conclusion
In conclusion, never forget that algae, from an evolutionary standpoint, have been around on this earth for perhaps as long as 3-4 billion years. They have “watched” the entire history of life unfold in front of them. They have adapted and radiated into almost all ecological niches. There is a reason why they are so successful; they are “biologically smart”. Recognize and even appreciate the fact that they are “biologically smarter” than all of us! If you can accept that than it makes it much easier to deal with the fact that you will always have some algae in your tanks.