BC_Kron
Jan 10th 2007, 09:40 PM
First let me start by saying I used this article for the basic design.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_canopy2.php
Because I work with wood on a daily basis, I sometimes take what I know for granted. Although this seemed like a very simple project to me, it does take a bit of planning.
You must take accurate measurements of the top of your aquarium, as well as any items such as lights, filters etc.
The tank this canopy will sit on is a 33g and "measures 92 cm x 32 cm. It does bow out in the middle to about 33 cm but that should be negligible. The black plastic trim at the top of the tank is 2.5 cm high. The waterline is usually kept at the level of the bottom of the trim. Therefore I want the canopy to sit just below this line". (2-3mm). The canopy will also need at least 6 cm of clearance above the rim of the tank for the HOB filter and lights. The lights will sit directly on the tanklid, and the canopy lid will open in the center and rest on the back when open.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021661.jpg
You don't need much for tools or materials to build this canopy.
If you do not have access to a powersaw,you can have the wood cut for you wherever you buy it. Just be sure to have accurate measurements.Based on the tank specs above, I cut my 3/4inch material as follows:
2)172mm x 953mm -2 piece top
2)323mm x 115mm -sides
1)953mm x 115mm -front
1)100mm x 115mm -back
1)25mm x 953mm -front runner
2)25mm x 300mm -side runners
1)25mm x 100mm -rear runner
In addition to the 3/4 inch plywood, I used a drill, hammer, tape measure, pencil, 2" wood screws, 1 1/2" finishing nails, stainable wood filler, 400grit sandpaper, 2" cabinet hinges, and a cabinet handle.
step 1:
mark and pre-drill holes in the back side of the front face for the screws that will hold the front and side together. (notice the line on the right side indicating thickness and orientation of the side piece for reference)
step 2:
measure, and mark for the interior runner. (This measurement will be slightly larger than the plastic frame on the top of the tank, thus allowing the lid to hide this frame from view.)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021671.jpg
step 3:
While holding the side pieces in place with the front, use the existing holes in the face to drill pilot holes in the sides. Predrilling holes will help eliminate the risk of the material splitting when you screw and glue the pieces together.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021672.jpg
step 4:
Apply glue to runner and use a couple finishing nails to hold in place. Do this to the front,side and back pieces. The finishing nail will hold the runner in place while the glue sets.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021673.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021676.jpg
: notice the runner is shorterthan the material. (in this case its the side) This is in allowance for the runner on the mate. (front face)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021677.jpg
step 5:
apply glue to the end of the side pieces, and using the woodscrews, attach the face to the sides. Be sure to wipe clean the glue that is expelled from the joint(s).
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021679.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021683.jpg
step 6:
apply glue to the rear, top side of the side pieces, (say that three times fast) and screw the top in place.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021685.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021686.jpg
glue and screw the rear brace in place. I chose to center it.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021689.jpg
heres a pic looking at the rear...
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021691.jpg
step 7:
place the lid in postion and measure for the hinges. I put them 3 inches from the edge on both sides.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021693.jpg
insert the screws, that come with the hinges
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021694.jpg
heres a side profile of the cabinet handle I used. I liked it because it was black and simple.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021697.jpg
measure and mark center of the lid and center of the handle. Screw the handle in place with the marks aligned.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021696.jpg
Voila!!!!!!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021699.jpg
All you need to do now is use the wood filler, to fill over the screw hole. Wait for filler to dry. An hour or so will do. Sand smooth and paint/stain as you please.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021702.jpg
I will continue to edit this post to better describe the processes involved, and make it more complete. Please bear with me.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_canopy2.php
Because I work with wood on a daily basis, I sometimes take what I know for granted. Although this seemed like a very simple project to me, it does take a bit of planning.
You must take accurate measurements of the top of your aquarium, as well as any items such as lights, filters etc.
The tank this canopy will sit on is a 33g and "measures 92 cm x 32 cm. It does bow out in the middle to about 33 cm but that should be negligible. The black plastic trim at the top of the tank is 2.5 cm high. The waterline is usually kept at the level of the bottom of the trim. Therefore I want the canopy to sit just below this line". (2-3mm). The canopy will also need at least 6 cm of clearance above the rim of the tank for the HOB filter and lights. The lights will sit directly on the tanklid, and the canopy lid will open in the center and rest on the back when open.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021661.jpg
You don't need much for tools or materials to build this canopy.
If you do not have access to a powersaw,you can have the wood cut for you wherever you buy it. Just be sure to have accurate measurements.Based on the tank specs above, I cut my 3/4inch material as follows:
2)172mm x 953mm -2 piece top
2)323mm x 115mm -sides
1)953mm x 115mm -front
1)100mm x 115mm -back
1)25mm x 953mm -front runner
2)25mm x 300mm -side runners
1)25mm x 100mm -rear runner
In addition to the 3/4 inch plywood, I used a drill, hammer, tape measure, pencil, 2" wood screws, 1 1/2" finishing nails, stainable wood filler, 400grit sandpaper, 2" cabinet hinges, and a cabinet handle.
step 1:
mark and pre-drill holes in the back side of the front face for the screws that will hold the front and side together. (notice the line on the right side indicating thickness and orientation of the side piece for reference)
step 2:
measure, and mark for the interior runner. (This measurement will be slightly larger than the plastic frame on the top of the tank, thus allowing the lid to hide this frame from view.)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021671.jpg
step 3:
While holding the side pieces in place with the front, use the existing holes in the face to drill pilot holes in the sides. Predrilling holes will help eliminate the risk of the material splitting when you screw and glue the pieces together.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021672.jpg
step 4:
Apply glue to runner and use a couple finishing nails to hold in place. Do this to the front,side and back pieces. The finishing nail will hold the runner in place while the glue sets.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021673.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021676.jpg
: notice the runner is shorterthan the material. (in this case its the side) This is in allowance for the runner on the mate. (front face)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021677.jpg
step 5:
apply glue to the end of the side pieces, and using the woodscrews, attach the face to the sides. Be sure to wipe clean the glue that is expelled from the joint(s).
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021679.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021683.jpg
step 6:
apply glue to the rear, top side of the side pieces, (say that three times fast) and screw the top in place.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021685.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021686.jpg
glue and screw the rear brace in place. I chose to center it.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021689.jpg
heres a pic looking at the rear...
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021691.jpg
step 7:
place the lid in postion and measure for the hinges. I put them 3 inches from the edge on both sides.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021693.jpg
insert the screws, that come with the hinges
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021694.jpg
heres a side profile of the cabinet handle I used. I liked it because it was black and simple.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021697.jpg
measure and mark center of the lid and center of the handle. Screw the handle in place with the marks aligned.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021696.jpg
Voila!!!!!!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021699.jpg
All you need to do now is use the wood filler, to fill over the screw hole. Wait for filler to dry. An hour or so will do. Sand smooth and paint/stain as you please.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/bc_kron/S4021702.jpg
I will continue to edit this post to better describe the processes involved, and make it more complete. Please bear with me.